Welt shoe and two-unit welting



April 9, 1929. H. LYON WELT SHOE AND TWO-UNIT WELTING Filed March 29, 1928 wwf/Ww? Patented pr. Y9, 192-9. l l UNITED ySTATES PATENT FFICE.

HARRY LYQN, F HoLBRoox, MASSACHUSETTS, AssKIGNoR To RERLRY E. BARBOUR, 'TRADING AS BARBCUR WELTING COMPANY, or BRocxToN, MASSACHUSETTS.

A WELT SHOE AND T't-O-'UNIY'J'Il WELTING. 'I

Application led March 29, 1928. Serial No. 265,678.

This invention relates to welt shoes and parmit easy handling at the inseam sewing opticularly to two unit welting therefor of the eration. Accordingl 10 (Fi 1) is a strip kind for givin a heavy-edge eectto the having thecharacterlstics of oodyear welt- 'shoe in which it is. used.v ing, i. e. a groove 12 and a bevel 13 prefer- Heretofore it has been the general practc' ably, but not necessarily, on the lower corner. to produce a heavy edge on a shoe by adding he Goodyear strip forms the base or an intermediate sole and outseaming both bottom unlt and the heav edge is obtained soles to a Goodyearwelt. The general object by placing on the expose -face of the strip of the present/invention is to provide the same 10 a top unit 14 (Fig. 2) the characterist-ic 10 heavy edge on the shoe by a specially-formedy feature of which is a Wedge-shaped inner end -two-unit welt outseamed to the usual outthat is illustrated as a sloping or oblique sursole' only, therebyl saving the very Considerface 15 forming, in the Welt, a substantial inable expense of the intermediate sole. There Wardly facing shoulder. It is preferred that is ample Wear in a single sole, in fact With the width of the top unit 14 be somewhat less 15 the double soled shoe re-soling is demanded than the Width of the bottom unit 10 so as to by the owner upon wearing through to the provide for a Sucient width of thinner inintermediate sole, so that this invention gives ner margin 16 (Fig. 3) to render the welting all the advantages .heretofore attained but completely flexible for inseam sewing; If with much less sole leather and the consethe weltingis to be handled as a unitary piece 20 quent saving of this expensive stock. Furthen the two units 10 and 14 are cemented ther objects of the invention aretoproduce together, care being taken when doing this heavy edged welting from two units inl an that the outer ed e of the top unit extends to economical manner while preserving the eX- the outer edge o the bottom unit. The two tension, retaining the shape insurance. adunits are preferably assembled with their vantages of certain types of beaded Goodouter edges lush since this prevents undue year welting, jroviding for an economical use waste of either in later trimming operations of bottom til er notwithstanding the dou- .on the sole edge. It will be seen from Fig. bling of the thiclmess of the welt, and pro- 4 that the upwardly and outwardly sloping ducing a welt that, while giving the shoe a inner edge'of the top unit 10 lies above the 3o heavy edge, will enable the welt sewing nial stitch-receiving groove 12.

chine operator to sew just as strong an m' When sewed into the shoe the inseam seam as may be served with `the ordmary stitches 18 (Fig. 4) pass through the thinner Goodyear welting. margin 16, just inside the wedge end 15 in To the accomplishment of these objects and the illustrated embodiment, and those skilled such others as may hereinafter appear, the in the art will recognize that, notwithstandinvention comprises the features of construcing its greater outer edge bulk, the novel tion and combinations of parts hereinafter welting can be sewed to the insole 20 just described and then particularly pointed out as tightly as the simple Goodyear type. The in the appended claims. inseam draws the welt in place with the wedge The simplest form of the invention known end 15 seated snugxlyin the crease between the to me is illustrated in the accompanying draw- Goodyear welt 10 and the upper 22, pressing ing, all the views being in perspective, and the upper materials vat this point against the in which Figure 1 is a view of a portion of a edge of the insole 20. The top unit 14 is strip of Goodyear welting to be used as the securely held in this position by the outseam base or bottom unit; Fig. 2 is a view of a por- 24 which unites the welt to the outsole 26.

tion of the strip forming the top unit; Fig. It will be seen from Fig. 4 that the base 3 is a view of the nished welting' and Fig. unit 1() lies .in the same position as a regular 4 is a view of a portion of a Goo year shoe Goodyear welt with relation to the insole. having a sin le outsole and the welt pf this Hence this shoerequires no additional sole lillinvention em odied therein. ver- 28. The support given to the upper about In theembodiment of the invention illusthe edge of the insole insures a retention of the trated in the drawing the heavy edge eiect shape ofthe shoe and prevents running over is produced by buildincr'up one strip o welt due to collapse of the margin of the insole material on another with due allowance for which may occur because of wetting or crackv a light or'thin enough inner margin to pering when either too punky or too brittle stock n is'used. The fact that the top unit 14 extends 'so far outward that it actually forms a part of the sole edge, and is held by the outseam, gives it such strength that the posit-ion in which it is originally placed never varies during wear, in contradistinction to the socalled cork-sole welts comprising a narrow bead that are diilicult to draw snugly into the crease and must be forced into place by a subse uent hammering or pounding. Wetting t e shoe margin 1s almost sure to cause the bead of a cork-sole welt to gape, but the greater bulk and permanent securement of the top unit of the heavy edged welt of this inventlonwholly overcomes this defect.

The two units may be fed separately to the shoe during its manufacture. The unit 10 may be fed into position at the inseaming operation and the unit 14 may be fed into position at the outseaming operation. Whether handled as a unit or separately is a matter of choice for the manufacturer.

The shape and proportions of the two units may be Varied within the skill of the artisan without departing from the true scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Thel nature and scope of my invention having been indicated, and its simplest embodiment and application to a shoe having been specifically described, what is claimed as new, isz- 1'. Two unit welting having top and bottom units of strip material assembled with their outer edges flush and having an inner margin thinner than the outer margin for receiving ceivinvr inseam stitching, said top unit presenting a substantial inwardly faclng shoulder above said thinner inner margin.

2. Two unit welting comprising a bottom unit of full welt width having a stitch-receiving groove, a top unit of'less width than the bottom unit having its outer edge flush with the outer edge of the bottom unit and its inner edge sloping upwardly and outwardly, said inner edge lying above said stitch-regroove.

3. hoe Welting comprising a base unit consisting of a strip of Goodyear welting and a second unit consisting of a strip applied to the exposed face of the Goodyear welting, having an inner edge substantially wedgeshaped to fit into the crease formed between the Goodyear Welt and upper of a shoe and having an outer edge located to form a part of the nished shoe sole edge when incorporated in a shoe.

v 4. A welt shoe having upper materials and an insole, a two unit welt having its bottom unit inseam stitched to said insole through the upper materials and its top unitextending outwardly to the outer edge of the bottom unit to form a part of the sole edge and having an oblique shoulder at its inner end that is held by the inseam stitches pressed against the upper materials that embrace the edge of said insole, and an outsole secured to the welt by stitching through both units whereby the top unit is securely held in its position of pressure against the edge of the insole.

HARRY LYON. 

